A beginning wind was alarming through the Fendi outlet SS17 collection. In a battleground year of contest adulatory the label’s 90th anniversary, its move into a new headquarters, and its clean-up of the Trevi bubbler in Rome, the house’s built-in home, to which Fendi apprenticed €2.2m — and again commandeered as the set on which to date their amazing July huge couture appearance — it’s assuredly time to move on.
For Karl Lagerfeld, who is the house’s artistic director, forth with Silvia Fendi and a man who despises retrospection, this appearance was a animation of air. In the brief apple of fashion, this “was the enough lightness”.
It was lots of things. The brood was youthful, avant-garde and bizarre in spirit. The looks featured avant-garde sportswear, tailored jackets with outsize pockets, stripey trousers, scalloped sleeves. Spots of fluoro blush and chicken were commutual with jacquard florals depicting Capodimonte ceramics designs from the 18th century, or feather-light printed chiffons, or liquidy-thin leathers, or accessory skirts of the blazon Marie Antoinette wore to garden at her Trianon.
For the proudly Italian house, the references seemed almighty French. “Well, don’t forget, Maria Carolina the Queen of Naples, area the Capodimonte ceramics branch was founded, was the sister of Marie Antoinette,” explained Lagerfeld as he sketched an Antoinette-style “wind apron” with a broader brim console to allegorize how it should avalanche from the waist. I hadn’t accepted to forget, I accepted as he channelled his account into a ball. That’s the joy of spending any time with Lagerfeld and his great all-embracing mind. You consistently apprentice something.
Historical references aside, the appearance was absolutely directional. Some of the models wore ribby neon knits, like sports tops, and a lot of wore a amalgam cossack that affiliated able-bodied socks with a curvy, striped renaissance heel. Sporty clothes accept become a key signature beyond the industry and a basic in the avant-garde wardrobe, area tracksuits and dressmaking appropriately coexist. Is atheleisurewear a street-up influence? “I don’t apperceive area it came from,” said Lagerfeld. “But it’s absolutely not from any added period.” He despairs of architecture which draws from absolute periods of history. He can’t angle the accepted trend for “1970s looks which attending like blur costumes”.
Despite advertisement a abatement of 1 per cent in acquirement beyond the LVMH portfolio in the group’s half-year address in July, Fendi’s fortunes accept been beneath afflicted by the slump in day-tripper sales that were abhorrent for the group’s accepted woes. The house, beneath arch controlling Pietro Beccari, was singled out in the address as one of its bigger performers. Though its absolute revenues are congenital with added houses, and appropriately unknown, Fendi handbags was declared as assuming “impressive advance and an accomplished performance … led by artefact creativity”.
Asked what that meant, Lagerfeld acicular to this show’s eclecticism and assiduity by way of example. In an era of individualism, he suggested, Fendi offers consumers lots to plan with. “No archetypal looked the same, the looks were all absolutely altered — even the hair and composition afflicted for every look,” he said. “And I alloyed all the colours so they were all absolutely opposite, a abominable blush and a pastel, a floral jacquard and leather.”
Increasingly, the affluence bazaar is about the bespoke details, and creating a attending or owning something absolutely unique. Fendi accept been awfully active in that bazaar — aboriginal with their £400 Bag Bugs, and now with a accomplished host of added accessories. The SS17 accoutrements were busy with a ataxia of fur emojis, antecedent key fobs and bond leather-covered straps, which can all be swapped and afflicted anniversary season. There were sweetie-coloured hair pins, and the clothes were aswell a mix-and-match of separates that could be styled accordingly. It was playful. Lagerfeld admired that the accumulating had a hardly untethered quality, or “a amphibian feeling”, as he declared it. Like the wind: it could go in any direction.